Nai’a Ulumaimalu WatsonI was recently asked about Niihau shell leis. These are Hawaii’s own luxury jewelry. Hawaii’s most prized shells are from the island of Ni’ihau (nee - ee - how) and they are used to make Niihau shell leis and other fine jewelry. Niihau shells are tiny shells, and they come in colors ranging from whites and creams, to pinks, corals and greens. The shells of Niihau has a certain unmistakable luster and they are harder and more durable than shells from other places.
Generally, the shells are strung by artisans into multi-strand configurations, secured with a larger cowrie shell clasp. The shells are also strung with intricate patterns and clusters, making each design a work of art. Niihau shells can be used to make earrings, bracelets and other types of jewelry, as well.
Niihau shell leis are both beautiful and coveted. A Niihau shell lei can cost up to $30,000 or more, depending upon its design, rarity and age. Niihau shell leis can take years to make, as they are hand strung of thousands of shells, which may take years to collect. Making Niihau shell jewelry is truly an art form and this has been passed along through generations of Niihau residents.
Photo by Lisa SeedThe island of Niihau, also known as the Forbidden isle, is one of the smallest Hawaiian islands and certainly the least populated, with only a few hundred residents. It is owned by the Robinson family, whose ancestors, the Sinclairs from New Zealand, purchased the island in 1864 for $1,000 in gold. As a private island, access to Niihau is almost completely restricted, with a few exceptions for relatives or residents, certain military operations, and commerical hunting tours. This means not only that the shells there are relatively plentiful and untainted by modern pollutants, but that they are hard to obtain.
Selecting a Niihau Shell Lei is similar to selecting any piece of fine jewelry. Personal taste will play into selection, on the basis of color, style, and length; however, a buyer should look for certain qualities and attributes. Below is an excerpt From Ni`ihau Shell Leis by Linda Paik Moriarty © 1986 University of Hawai‘i Press, discussing what to look for in a Niihau shell lei:
1. Color. The shells in a good lei have been carefully selected for color. If a lei is designed to be monochromatic, then the shells should be as nearly perfectly matched as possible. For example, if a lei is to be deemed pure white, shells that are speckled or off-white, and thus detract from the purity of the color, should not be present. In a Lei Kipona, or mixed-style lei, the selection and arrangement of shell colors should create a pleasing visual combination.
2. Luster. The natural luster of the shells is a very important feature to consider in selecting a lei. Shells with a brilliant luster like that of pearls are much more attractive. Shells collected on Ni‘ihau are generally far more radiant than those found elsewhere. The same types of shells found on Kaua‘i, for example, are inferior in color and have little or no luster. The difference is readily apparent when the two are placed side by side.
3. Flaws. The individual shells used in a lei should be flawless, completely free of any holes, chips, or cracks. The only holes should be the ones pierced by the lei maker. The aperture of each shell should be free of sand except in the Lei Kui Pololei style, in which the grains of sand prevent the shells from twisting on the thread and upsetting the uniformity of the style.
4. Size. Shells should be uniform in size, an important feature that helps determine the symmetry of the lei. If the lei is made from shells of graduated sizes, careful selection of sizes should be evident. Lei made of very tiny shells are extremely difficult to make and highly prized; the smaller the shell, the more difficult it is to clean and pierce it successfully.
5. Workmanship. The quality of workmanship is reflected in the piercing, sewing of the shells, and joining of the strands. The holes should be pierced in exactly the same place in each shell. This ensures evenness of style. In the Lei Kui Pololei, or single stringing style, the sewing thread should never be visible between the shells. When the sewing style requires the use of more than one length of thread, as in the Pikake styles, the knots should be tight and secure to prevent the shells from turning on the thread and upsetting the pattern.
The cowries used to join the shell lei should be of good quality without any flaws such as chips or cracks, and the color should complement the color or colors of the lei. The loose thread and cotton stuffing should be firmly implanted and neatly glued into the aperture of the cowry. If a hook-and-eye fastener is used, it should be glued to the underside of the cowries and should not be visible to a viewer when the shells are fastened together. The kauno‘o or puka shells that adjoin the cowries should match each other in size and color.
From Ni`ihau Shell Leis by Linda Paik Moriarty © 1986 University of Hawai‘i Press.